Effect of cultivar on the quality of flax and hemp grown in South Africa
- Authors: Blouw, Langa Sunshine
- Date: 2012
- Subjects: Hemp -- South Africa , Flaxseed -- South Africa , Plant varieties , Textile industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: vital:9387 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/d1010997 , Hemp -- South Africa , Flaxseed -- South Africa , Plant varieties , Textile industry
- Description: Bast fibrous renewable materials, as commercial crops for the manufacture of textile based and other products, have been used for thousands of years to satisfy certain human needs, such as for shelter, clothing, source of energy and tools, and to sustain the livelihood of many communities in countries, such as in Asia, Europe and Africa. Concern for the environment has led to a number of global initiatives that favour the use of natural fibres. It is forecast that the global fibre demand by 2050 will be 130 million tonnes, which the cotton and synthetic fibre production will not be able to meet. Other than the environmental concerns, the renewed global interest in natural fibres, such as flax and hemp, forms part of a strategy to satisfy the fibre demand. South Africa, notwithstanding the fact that the flax and hemp industries have long been established for thousands of years in Europe, Asia and Egypt (Africa), has no history of the breeding, growing, processing and production of these cash crops. The renewed global interest in these crops has also stimulated interest from South Africa with respect to the development of a flax and hemp fibre industry so as to address some of the socio-economic challenges confronting the country today in its attempts to bring about real development in the rural areas through the cultivation and complete beneficiation of these fibre crops. In this regard, the relevant stakeholders, namely government, research councils, tertiary education institutions, farmers and communities worked together to investigate whether South Africa has the agronomic and climatic conditions, technical expertise as well as the necessary processing and production infrastructure to support the development of a local flax and hemp agro-industry. The purpose of this study was firstly to evaluate the performance of EU flax and hemp cultivars grown under different agronomic conditions in South Africa, and their effect on straw biomass yield, fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare as well as associated fibre properties, and secondly to undertake mechanical fibre modification trials aimed at producing flax and hemp fibres with fibre diameters close to those of cotton. The minimum fibre diameter targeted being 20μm. In accordance with the project objectives and work plan, selected dew retted flax and hemp straw samples from the various planting sites selected by the Agriculture Research Council – Institute for Industrial Crops, representing all the agronomic conditions under investigation, were taken to the CSIR for fibre extraction and testing. A relatively inexpensive and easy to operate Russian designed and manufactured machine, the CMT-200M breaker-cum-scutcher, was used for fibre extraction and the resultant extracted fibre bundles were further refined, using a steel comb, to obtain optimal fibre separation before their physical and chemical properties were evaluated. Results obtained in this research study proved that the climatic and agronomic conditions in South Africa were suitable for the cultivation of flax and hemp, notwithstanding the fact that the fibre yields achieved for hemp were lower than the minimum criteria of 23 percent, and that for flax only just exceeded the 25 percent minimum. The lack of local technical expertise on the growing and retting of flax and hemp, contributed to the low fibre yields. The planting parameters which were found to produce good results for the cultivation of hemp were the October planting date, using a row spacing of between 12.5 to 25 cm, with a seeding density of between 80 – 100kg, and the application of 50 – 100kg nitrogen fertiliser. The use of extra artificial lighting and herbicide treatment did not appear to beneficially improve the hemp fibre yields. Similar considerations for flax cultivation in the Southern Cape region, particularly Oudtshoorn and Outeniqua, indicated that May to July planting dates, using inter-row spacing of 25cm and sowing density of 63kg seed.haˉ¹, produced a fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare above the minimum values of 25 percent and 0,8 tonnes per hectare, respectively, quoted in the literature.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2012
- Authors: Blouw, Langa Sunshine
- Date: 2012
- Subjects: Hemp -- South Africa , Flaxseed -- South Africa , Plant varieties , Textile industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: vital:9387 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/d1010997 , Hemp -- South Africa , Flaxseed -- South Africa , Plant varieties , Textile industry
- Description: Bast fibrous renewable materials, as commercial crops for the manufacture of textile based and other products, have been used for thousands of years to satisfy certain human needs, such as for shelter, clothing, source of energy and tools, and to sustain the livelihood of many communities in countries, such as in Asia, Europe and Africa. Concern for the environment has led to a number of global initiatives that favour the use of natural fibres. It is forecast that the global fibre demand by 2050 will be 130 million tonnes, which the cotton and synthetic fibre production will not be able to meet. Other than the environmental concerns, the renewed global interest in natural fibres, such as flax and hemp, forms part of a strategy to satisfy the fibre demand. South Africa, notwithstanding the fact that the flax and hemp industries have long been established for thousands of years in Europe, Asia and Egypt (Africa), has no history of the breeding, growing, processing and production of these cash crops. The renewed global interest in these crops has also stimulated interest from South Africa with respect to the development of a flax and hemp fibre industry so as to address some of the socio-economic challenges confronting the country today in its attempts to bring about real development in the rural areas through the cultivation and complete beneficiation of these fibre crops. In this regard, the relevant stakeholders, namely government, research councils, tertiary education institutions, farmers and communities worked together to investigate whether South Africa has the agronomic and climatic conditions, technical expertise as well as the necessary processing and production infrastructure to support the development of a local flax and hemp agro-industry. The purpose of this study was firstly to evaluate the performance of EU flax and hemp cultivars grown under different agronomic conditions in South Africa, and their effect on straw biomass yield, fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare as well as associated fibre properties, and secondly to undertake mechanical fibre modification trials aimed at producing flax and hemp fibres with fibre diameters close to those of cotton. The minimum fibre diameter targeted being 20μm. In accordance with the project objectives and work plan, selected dew retted flax and hemp straw samples from the various planting sites selected by the Agriculture Research Council – Institute for Industrial Crops, representing all the agronomic conditions under investigation, were taken to the CSIR for fibre extraction and testing. A relatively inexpensive and easy to operate Russian designed and manufactured machine, the CMT-200M breaker-cum-scutcher, was used for fibre extraction and the resultant extracted fibre bundles were further refined, using a steel comb, to obtain optimal fibre separation before their physical and chemical properties were evaluated. Results obtained in this research study proved that the climatic and agronomic conditions in South Africa were suitable for the cultivation of flax and hemp, notwithstanding the fact that the fibre yields achieved for hemp were lower than the minimum criteria of 23 percent, and that for flax only just exceeded the 25 percent minimum. The lack of local technical expertise on the growing and retting of flax and hemp, contributed to the low fibre yields. The planting parameters which were found to produce good results for the cultivation of hemp were the October planting date, using a row spacing of between 12.5 to 25 cm, with a seeding density of between 80 – 100kg, and the application of 50 – 100kg nitrogen fertiliser. The use of extra artificial lighting and herbicide treatment did not appear to beneficially improve the hemp fibre yields. Similar considerations for flax cultivation in the Southern Cape region, particularly Oudtshoorn and Outeniqua, indicated that May to July planting dates, using inter-row spacing of 25cm and sowing density of 63kg seed.haˉ¹, produced a fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare above the minimum values of 25 percent and 0,8 tonnes per hectare, respectively, quoted in the literature.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2012
The further development, optimisation and application of a Yarn Dismantler
- Authors: Fassihi, Ali Akbar
- Date: 2012
- Subjects: Textile industry , Cotton yarn industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: vital:10452 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/d1016066
- Description: The fibre properties of cotton, which vary widely according to genetic and environmental conditions, determine its price and textile processing performance and product quality. It is therefore hardly surprising that cotton fibre properties are routinely measured for trading and quality control purposes, with a great deal of research having been, and still being, devoted towards developing instruments which enable the various fibre properties to be measured rapidly and accurately. In many cases, it is also necessary to be able to measure properties of cotton fibres when they have already been converted into yarn and fabric form. To do so, the yarn has to be dismantled into its component fibres, preferably without significantly changing the fibre properties. This could only be done by manually untwisting the yarn and carefully extracting the fibres from the untwisted yarn, care being taken not to break or lose any fibres in the process. This is a time consuming, laborious and labour intensive process. In view of this, a „yarn dismantler‟ which could automatically, cost effectively and within acceptable time frames, dismantle a cotton yarn into its constituent fibres, without undue damage or changes to the fibres, was developed and patented. This thesis reports the results of research undertaken to further develop, evaluate and optimize the yarn dismantler into the final prototype, as well as those relating to its practical applications, including tracking changes in fibre properties during miniature and pilot scale processing, up to, and including the yarn stage. Initial research undertaken on the original bench and first prototype models indicated that, although they produced very promising results, certain improvements and modifications were necessary, if the dismantler was to perform in an efficient and operator friendly manner at the required speeds. These included changes in the axial position of the untwisting spindle and the perforated screen of the suction drum, increasing the air suction at the perforated drum, installing a new motor for the untwisting spindle drive, separating the drives to the different parts of the unit in order to control them independently, integrating a more effective steaming unit into the unit etc. It was found that the dismantling rate had to be set to equal about 95 percent of the original twist in the yarn, and that steaming of the dismantled (untwisted) yarn on the perforated drum was necessary in order to eliminate any twist liveliness (residual torque) in the dismantled yarn, and enable it to be handled and tested on the AFIS instrument. When the final prototype Yarn Dismantler was produced, incorporating all the above mentioned improvements, it functioned very well at dismantling speeds of at least 2m/min, enabling the length of yarn required for subsequent AFIS testing to be dismantled within an acceptable time of less than 10 minutes, with excellent reproducibility and repeatability of results, also under commercial conditions. It was found that the AFIS measured length characteristics of fibres from the instrument dismantled yarns compared very well with those of fibres from manually dismantled yarns, differences in fibre length generally being less than 1mm, and it was concluded from these and other evaluation tests, that the yarn dismantler produced fibres without any significant fibre breakage. Some limited tests, carried out on commercially produced carded and combed yarns, indicated that short fibre content and dust and trash levels, as measured by the AFIS on fibres from dismantled yarn, together with the corresponding Uster Statistics, could enable a carded cotton yarn to be distinguished from a combed cotton yarn. Statistical analysis of fibre test results obtained at the different stages during miniature and pilot plant scale processing of various cottons, clearly showed that very significant changes in fibre properties could be caused by certain of the processes. For example, significant fibre breakage occurred during the drafting on the spinning frame, prior to twist insertion. The thesis provides detailed results of changes in various fibre properties, including length, short fibre content, maturity, immature fibre content, seed coat neps and fibrous neps, which occurred from the lint to the final yarn, as well as on the relationship between the properties of the fibres from the dismantled yarn and those from the lint. The results obtained have clearly demonstrated the practical value of the yarn dismantler in enabling yarns to be automatically dismantled into their constituent fibres, which can then be tested by an instrument, such as the AFIS, and the test results related to those of the original lint fibres, thereby opening up many fields of research and practical applications, some of which are captured under „Recommended Further Work‟.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2012
- Authors: Fassihi, Ali Akbar
- Date: 2012
- Subjects: Textile industry , Cotton yarn industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , PhD
- Identifier: vital:10452 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/d1016066
- Description: The fibre properties of cotton, which vary widely according to genetic and environmental conditions, determine its price and textile processing performance and product quality. It is therefore hardly surprising that cotton fibre properties are routinely measured for trading and quality control purposes, with a great deal of research having been, and still being, devoted towards developing instruments which enable the various fibre properties to be measured rapidly and accurately. In many cases, it is also necessary to be able to measure properties of cotton fibres when they have already been converted into yarn and fabric form. To do so, the yarn has to be dismantled into its component fibres, preferably without significantly changing the fibre properties. This could only be done by manually untwisting the yarn and carefully extracting the fibres from the untwisted yarn, care being taken not to break or lose any fibres in the process. This is a time consuming, laborious and labour intensive process. In view of this, a „yarn dismantler‟ which could automatically, cost effectively and within acceptable time frames, dismantle a cotton yarn into its constituent fibres, without undue damage or changes to the fibres, was developed and patented. This thesis reports the results of research undertaken to further develop, evaluate and optimize the yarn dismantler into the final prototype, as well as those relating to its practical applications, including tracking changes in fibre properties during miniature and pilot scale processing, up to, and including the yarn stage. Initial research undertaken on the original bench and first prototype models indicated that, although they produced very promising results, certain improvements and modifications were necessary, if the dismantler was to perform in an efficient and operator friendly manner at the required speeds. These included changes in the axial position of the untwisting spindle and the perforated screen of the suction drum, increasing the air suction at the perforated drum, installing a new motor for the untwisting spindle drive, separating the drives to the different parts of the unit in order to control them independently, integrating a more effective steaming unit into the unit etc. It was found that the dismantling rate had to be set to equal about 95 percent of the original twist in the yarn, and that steaming of the dismantled (untwisted) yarn on the perforated drum was necessary in order to eliminate any twist liveliness (residual torque) in the dismantled yarn, and enable it to be handled and tested on the AFIS instrument. When the final prototype Yarn Dismantler was produced, incorporating all the above mentioned improvements, it functioned very well at dismantling speeds of at least 2m/min, enabling the length of yarn required for subsequent AFIS testing to be dismantled within an acceptable time of less than 10 minutes, with excellent reproducibility and repeatability of results, also under commercial conditions. It was found that the AFIS measured length characteristics of fibres from the instrument dismantled yarns compared very well with those of fibres from manually dismantled yarns, differences in fibre length generally being less than 1mm, and it was concluded from these and other evaluation tests, that the yarn dismantler produced fibres without any significant fibre breakage. Some limited tests, carried out on commercially produced carded and combed yarns, indicated that short fibre content and dust and trash levels, as measured by the AFIS on fibres from dismantled yarn, together with the corresponding Uster Statistics, could enable a carded cotton yarn to be distinguished from a combed cotton yarn. Statistical analysis of fibre test results obtained at the different stages during miniature and pilot plant scale processing of various cottons, clearly showed that very significant changes in fibre properties could be caused by certain of the processes. For example, significant fibre breakage occurred during the drafting on the spinning frame, prior to twist insertion. The thesis provides detailed results of changes in various fibre properties, including length, short fibre content, maturity, immature fibre content, seed coat neps and fibrous neps, which occurred from the lint to the final yarn, as well as on the relationship between the properties of the fibres from the dismantled yarn and those from the lint. The results obtained have clearly demonstrated the practical value of the yarn dismantler in enabling yarns to be automatically dismantled into their constituent fibres, which can then be tested by an instrument, such as the AFIS, and the test results related to those of the original lint fibres, thereby opening up many fields of research and practical applications, some of which are captured under „Recommended Further Work‟.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2012
A strategy for the implementation of e-business and e-commerce to achieve a competitive advantage in the textile industry
- Authors: Futcher, Shane Henry
- Date: 2003
- Subjects: Electronic commerce , Competition , Textile industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Masters , MBA
- Identifier: vital:10886 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/140 , Electronic commerce , Competition , Textile industry
- Description: The research problem addressed in this study was to determine what is required for e-business and e-commerce to have an impact on the Textile Industry in the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan. To achieve this objective, a literature study was done to identify what strategies were needed and how e-business and e-commerce would enhance the relationships between the organisations, suppliers and customers. An empirical study was conducted to ascertain what the managers within the Textile Industry know about e-commerce and e-business and the role they have or could play within their industry.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2003
- Authors: Futcher, Shane Henry
- Date: 2003
- Subjects: Electronic commerce , Competition , Textile industry
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Masters , MBA
- Identifier: vital:10886 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/140 , Electronic commerce , Competition , Textile industry
- Description: The research problem addressed in this study was to determine what is required for e-business and e-commerce to have an impact on the Textile Industry in the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan. To achieve this objective, a literature study was done to identify what strategies were needed and how e-business and e-commerce would enhance the relationships between the organisations, suppliers and customers. An empirical study was conducted to ascertain what the managers within the Textile Industry know about e-commerce and e-business and the role they have or could play within their industry.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 2003
Maputo declaration on the textiles, clothing and leather industries
- Authors: Worker representatives
- Date: 1999?
- Subjects: Clothing trade , Textile industry , Leather industry and trade , Complaints (Civil procedure)
- Language: English
- Type: text , book
- Identifier: http://hdl.handle.net/10962/76004 , vital:30491
- Description: The massive job losses and factory closures in the clothing, textiles and leather industries in almost all countries in the region. The low wages that continue in our industries, resulting in a low and, in many instances, declining standard of living of workers. The crisis which face unemployed workers who have no income, no social security net, and no immediate prospect of a job. It is a fundamental responsibility of governments in the region to work with trade unions and employers in order to develop appropriate policies to secure a future for the industries and to improve the conditions of workers.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 1999?
- Authors: Worker representatives
- Date: 1999?
- Subjects: Clothing trade , Textile industry , Leather industry and trade , Complaints (Civil procedure)
- Language: English
- Type: text , book
- Identifier: http://hdl.handle.net/10962/76004 , vital:30491
- Description: The massive job losses and factory closures in the clothing, textiles and leather industries in almost all countries in the region. The low wages that continue in our industries, resulting in a low and, in many instances, declining standard of living of workers. The crisis which face unemployed workers who have no income, no social security net, and no immediate prospect of a job. It is a fundamental responsibility of governments in the region to work with trade unions and employers in order to develop appropriate policies to secure a future for the industries and to improve the conditions of workers.
- Full Text:
- Date Issued: 1999?
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